CASE STUDY: CAROLINE POLACHEK’S HEAVY-DUTY LINER
Performing hits like "So Hot You're Hurting My Feelings" beneath heavy industrial wind fans, Polachek embodied the Hermès It Girl. Under an industrial backdrop of curated yellow traffic lights, the makeup had to hold its own against the elements.
Hermès made its historic New York debut as a transatlantic dialogue between Paris and Manhattan. Avant-pop icon Caroline Polachek transformed the “Manhattan Rocabar” after-party into a crosscultural brand activation of the local creative underground.
CULTURAL CONTEXT
The East River venue mirrored a time when underground artists took control of the city's abandoned piers as a countercultural epicenter. Caroline Polachek’s heavy-duty liner became a cultural vehicle, translating the collection’s urban resilience into a beauty statement.
Set at Pier 36, Hermès transformed Downtown Manhattan’s industrial stage with a nod to the ’70s. Nadège Vanhee referenced Scorsese’s foggy streetscapes and the androgynous spirit of punk-poets like Patti Smith, reimagining subcultural identity through haute maroquinerie.
THE INTERVENTION
The look backstage was tied to the global launch of the Trait d’Hermès collection, curated by Gregoris Pyrpylis. I placed the pencils at the core of her bespoke moto look, allowing the product lead the expression. Unlike a runway brief, working with high-profile talent is built on trust, exploring every decision together so the result feels as intentional as the product itself.
Backstage at Pier 36, Caroline walked me through her album covers and old visual archives. We wanted to balance her pop energy with the elegance of Egyptian art outlines. To bring this to life, I suggested softening the angles, curving the liner so it felt open and fluid — a direct dialogue between her identity and her audience.
STRATEGIC APPROACH
The focus was matching Caroline’s love of rich, earthy tones while ensuring they stayed vivid under constant exposure. To balance the reflective vermilion leather, we kept the base satin matte and chose a sculpted nude lip. Co-creating the look with Caroline gave us the longwear impact we envisioned.
By working closely with Caroline, we stepped away from a flat, predictable black line and crafted a custom, dimensional shade. We mapped out her signature look with a blend of Trait d’Hermès pencils (99 Noir Fusain and 87 Brun Écorce), along with waterproof hybrids to keep the graphic negative space pristine.
OUTCOME
The activation also supported Hermès’ global growth, reaching key fashion markets like Paris, New York, London, Milan, and Tokyo, leading to a 12% revenue increase across the Americas in H1 2024.
This debut drove over 200 media features worldwide, including Vogue, W Magazine, and WWD positioning the collection in a broader cultural conversation about luxury beauty. NYLON recognized Caroline Polachek’s heavy-duty liner as one of the best celebrity beauty looks of the week.
AUDIENCE & CONSUMER INSIGHT
For Gen Z and millennials, Caroline’s interpretation translated those codes into a new cultural language, capturing a cosmopolitan audience that reimagined the Parisian equestrian and biker woman through a New York lens.
In a room filled with industry leaders and top global editors, the event connected with two distinct luxury audiences. For UHNW collectors, the private presentation reinforced Hermès’ legacy of craftsmanship, exclusivity, and timeless codes.
CULTURAL IMPACT
This organic wave of participation extended the life of the Trait d’Hermès eye collection beyond Pier 36, proving that the most powerful luxury moments are the ones audiences don’t just admire — they adopt.
The story didn’t end when Caroline left the stage. Creators across TikTok, beauty communities, and digital fashion platforms began recreating the heavy-duty liner, each adding their own interpretation of the technique.
SHOW CREDITS
Artistic Director: Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski, Campaign Director: Charles Levai / Kevin Tekinel, Photographer: Drew Vickers, Key Makeup Artist: Gregoris Pyrpylis, Hair Stylist: Anthony Turner, Caroline Polachek's Makeup Artist: Ann Gior